Brussels

Thanks to the direct flight from Chicago, and its easy access to the rest of Europe, I’ve been lucky enough to visit Brussels a few times. Yes, often steel grey skies and slightly miserable weather. But I grew up in Ohio, where the exchange for all that are the glorious fall days of color. In Brussels, a fine summer day with sunshine and blue skies is to be relished. As the seat of the EU, no city is more naturally multilingual. And while portions of the city veer institutional, there’s also a wonderful collection of art nouveau architecture (although many, like the Hôtel Solvay or Hôtel van Eetvelde require advance tickets or are not open to the public). There is a very lively gay scene, which adopts from the French the lovely tradition of sidewalk cafes for a drink and people watching. And while perhaps Brussels doesn’t lead with its food scene, it’s cafes for mussels can’t be beat. But the real gem is the Belgian love of comics: shops, museums, and on buildings throughout the city. On the right, sunny day, there’s likely no more enjoyable way to explore the city than walking from mural to mural along the “comic route.”

Stay

The Park Inn by Radisson Brussels Midi is a well-priced modern hotel, close to the train station.

Dine

In the charming Pl. Sainte-Catherine / Marché aux Poissons district, options abound for cafes featuring rather average international cuisine. Mussel Mongers at Quai aux Briques 8, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium stood out for its heaping buckets of steaming mussels, as well as its patio cafe and great people watching. There are a few legit art nouveau brassieres, complete with Belgian beers and cuisine (I loved a dish of saucy, creamy braised endive served with baguettes). Try Nüetnigenough at Rue du Lombard 25, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium, or Les Brigittines at Pl. de la Chapelle 5, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium. Everywhere you go you’ll find the joy of waffles. Try Aux Gaufres De Bruxelles at Rue du Marché Aux Herbes 113, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium for slightly less touristy, sit down spot; Maison Dandoy at Galerie du Roi 2, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium is another fine option.

Drink

I should learn the history of beers in Belgium; it is their pride and joy and rightfully so. I visited Moeder Lambic Fontainas at Pl. Fontainas 8, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium several times for its easy going atmosphere and rich menu of Lambics. La Reserve at Rue au Beurre 2, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium is a classic cafe, with patio seating for people watching, well-positioned at the start of the gay cafe district. There are dozens of choices along here: Castro Café Brussels at Rue du Marché au Charbon Kolenmarkt 94, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium is a fine local pub and gay bar. Even in Chicago, Delirium Café at Imp. de la Fidélité 4, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium is famous for its beer and their beer selection is vast.

Street art

The Comic Book Route is one of my favorite ways of exploring town: you’ll be taken throughout the city center to see murals and less visited neighborhoods. If I were deep into comics, I would definitely take a guided tour of them, to better understand the context and history. Maybe start or end at the Comics art museum at Rue des Sables 20, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium, or The House of Comics at Keizerinlaan 1, 1000 Brussel, Belgium.

  • Mural “Le Passage Mu” at Rue du Marché au Charbon Kolenmarkt 17, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium
  • Mural “Rik Ringers stripmuur” at Rue de Bon Secours 9, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium
  • Mural “à la mémoire d’Ihsane Jarfi” at Rue Saint-Christophe 36A, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium
  • Mural “Broussaille” at Rue du Marché au Charbon Kolenmarkt 41, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium
  • Mural “Lucky Luke” at Rue de la Buanderie 45, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium

Culture

  • Musical Instruments Museum at Rue Montagne de la Cour 2, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium: apparently temporarily closed, remarkable for its architecture and views
  • Horta Museum at Rue Américaine 27, 1060 Bruxelles, Belgium: next time I’ll make it to this house museum of the famous art nouveau architect