Throughout Mexico and especially in Puerto Vallarta, you will see them, there on the street: taquería stands, with a small gathering of folks around them, chatting, eating, waiting, and a hard-working taquero or two, often on an elevated stage above it all, surrounded by grills, working 5 orders at a time.

Street taco stands are the best kind of ma-and-pa places to eat. In Puerto Vallarta, despite their size and portability, they are permanent locations with annually renewed licenses. They have long-standing family reputations. I often hear Americans worried that they may get ill, but the cleanliness at taquerías is an issue of family pride. Plates are sterile thanks to a fresh plastic bag on each use, and there's a wash station to use before eating. Especially use the hand washing sink if you've been psst-psst-psst petting cats all day.

Different kinds of tacos are eaten at different times of the day. You'll find tacos de canasta — a soft, steamed taco — only in the early mornings. Birria tacos tend to be late morning to early afternoon. Seafood taquerías are lunch places, typically closed by late afternoon. Meaty tacos dominate the evenings and late nights. Plan accordingly.

The Taquerías

Bahía 103

Francisca Rodríguez 133, Zona Romántica, Emiliano Zapata, 48380 Puerto Vallarta, Jal., Mexico

Right on the busy, mostly pedestrian-only street that leads to Puerto Vallarta's pier, Bahía is really a small cafe, not a taco stand. But it offers some of the freshest, most innovative seafood tostadas around. The perfect spot to refresh after some time at the beach.

Mariscos Cisneros

Aguacate 271, Zona Romántica, Emiliano Zapata, 48380 Puerto Vallarta, Jal., Mexico

A taco stand in the front, and a full restaurant with patio in the back. The mixed seafood tacos at Cisneros are outstanding.

De La Mar Seafood Market

C. Fco. I. Madero 315, Zona Romántica, Centro, 48380 Puerto Vallarta, Jal., Mexico

This is really a seafood market, but recently set out a few tables in front, on the street. Come here to try tacos de pescado filled with the freshest catch of the day, literally brought in that morning. The ceviche is also outstanding.

Tacos De Mariscos Garlapago Tacolini

C. Jacarandas 325, Zona Romántica, Emiliano Zapata, 48380 Puerto Vallarta, Jal., Mexico

Probably the smallest taquería on this list, Garlapago Tacolini has some tight seating around the grill, and nothing else. Along the grill, you'll see trays of various seafood mixes and stews, and that's the specialty here: machaca, Marlin ahumado, chicharron de pescado, jaiba. This is one of my favorite spots, and a great one to try new mixes.

Marisqueria Los Lirios

Aguacate 395, Zona Romántica, Emiliano Zapata, 48380 Puerto Vallarta, Jal., Mexico

This is a restaurant, but also the family's house: you eat outside along a covered walkway, while literally home-cooked seafood dishes are brought to you.

Marisma Fish Taco

Naranjo 320, Zona Romántica, Emiliano Zapata, 48380 Puerto Vallarta, Jal., Mexico

Quite simply, the best baja-style deep fried fish or shrimp tacos in Puerto Vallarta. Marisma fries them on the spot — these are served hot, fresh, and crunchy — they aren't pre-fried and warmed up later! There's lots of seating under the porch.

How to order

There's a lot of excitement going on around taquerías; don't be intimidated. They are friendly places. Here's how they work:

  • Find the menu, which is sometimes on a wall, on the stand itself, or (rarely) printed. Sometimes there are English menus, too. Decide what you want to eat. Sometimes I'll check out what others are ordering, and plan on doing the “I'll have that too, please” option, or point to something interesting.
  • Find the order taker. You typically don't talk directly with the taquero, who is busy making tacos: instead, a separate order taker will write your request down and put it in the queue.
  • Find where you want to sit. Whether it's an architectural decision or just chance, I've noticed seafood taquerías tend more than others to have high-chair seating around the grills. They are perfect to see what's going on and what you might order next.
  • The order-taker will usually bring your order to you, on plastic-covered sterile plates and typically no silverware. Note that napkins in Mexico are on the small side.
  • You'll find various salsas, pickles, onions, and other relishes — often family recipes too — around the stand. Always take care with salsas that you're unfamiliar with. A funny incident years ago led us to call a wildly spicy orange salsa “Keith Sauce,” as much for his reaction as the shock of the Mexicans around him as he piled it on.
  • After you've eaten, you'll either order more, or hand your plates back to the order taker, pay her or him, and go.
  • This is not the time to linger around hogging up a seat: folks want to sit. Enjoy your beverage and long conversation close by — and maybe order another round!

Seafood taquerías come in various sizes, but in general, the fastest eats – think, quick lunch and go – happen sitting at the counter. Slightly slower, sitting at an outdoor table. Some taco stands are part of a standard restaurant, with table seating inside.