Puerto Vallarta is a major tourist town: there are plenty of guides to fancy and gourmet experiences. Enjoy them! Here is a short guide to something different: six food-focused spots that I crave, that I revisit multiple times a visit. They range from inexpensive along-the-river to chef-driven enterprises, but they are all slighty off the standard tourist beat. I list them in rough order of cost — but you'll find them all exceptionally well priced.

El Solar

The best beach bar of them all; sophisticated yet laid back, off the beaten track. Great grilled fish tacos, ceviche, tartares, from El Barracuda next door.

Paraguay 1294, 5 de Diciembre, 48350 Puerto Vallarta, Jal., Mexico

La Notte Pizzería

The best pizza in town, vero Italiano, cooked in a wood-fired oven.

C. Honduras 115, 5 de Diciembre, 48350 Puerto Vallarta, Jal., Mexico

Balam Balam

Outdoor, on the river seafood lunch spot, with fresh grilled fish and more. Great bird watching and boozing: I crave a Saturday afternoon here.

Rivera del Río 177, Zona Romántica, Emiliano Zapata, 48380 Puerto Vallarta, Jal., Mexico

Il Pesce Cucina Di Mare

Take the freshest regional fish, treat it with impeccable Italian technique, and serve in an intimate, casual spot. Do not miss the carpaccios.

C. Constitución 285B, Zona Romántica, Emiliano Zapata, 48380 Puerto Vallarta, Jal., Mexico

Sendo

Reserve ahead of time for a remarkable omakase experience, with the freshest seafood available.

601, morelos, 48300 Puerto Vallarta, Jal., Mexico

Tintoque

Regional Mexican dishes, rethought from a gastronomic perspective, supporting local farms and fishermen. Very remarkable weekend brunch.

Aquiles Serdán 445, Zona Romántica, Emiliano Zapata, 48380 Puerto Vallarta, Jal., Mexico