Note: I'm working to debug a geo-coding issue between my note taking system and my blog system: most geo-encoded links below won't yet work.
Iceland has many well established trip routes; but overlooked is the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Northwest of Reykjavík, just a few hours drive, it offers wild landscapes, national parks, and unforgettable vistas.
From Reykjavík, Borgarnes is about an hours drive north, and in my mind serves as a great gateway town. The Settlement Center (Brákarbraut 13-15, 310 Borgarnes) is a fine spot to stretch one's legs — probably a better museum for kids than adults, but a great way to begin unwinding from the city. The close by Geirabakarí Kaffihús (Þjóðvegur, 310 Borgarnes) is an ideal spot for coffee and snacks, with incredible sweeping views. Of course, you've brought your swimsuit on this trip, for all the hot pots and swimming pools, right? Borgarnes has an outdoor pool with 3 hot pots — and while I didn't visit this one, it looks absolutely classic, a real locals experience.
Driving along the southern edge of the peninsula, I stopped at Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge, a short and challenging hike into a great split of the mountain side. It's close to two remarkable towns, Arnarstapi and Hellnar, with storied pasts and interesting water-side hikes.
I stayed at the Fosshotel Hellnar. It's a beautiful, modern, and remote spot, where during supper a quiet waiter announced, “um, there are northern lights out,” and everyone yelped and ran outside to gaze for hours.
I'd like to stay there for a week and work on my book.
At the end of the peninsula, find the Snæfellsjökull National Park. I'll admit that I was weather unprepared upon arrival — it was hard drizzle raining the entire day — and missed many interesting hikes. It did make for a foggy and mysterious visit to the fairly famous Kirkjufell Mountain and Kirkjufellsfossar, where there was literally no one else around. Blame it on the weather, I guess!
On the northern side of the peninsula, find Stykkishólmur — the instagram account visitstykkisholmur will set your adventuresome mind to flight. The Stykkishólmur Swimming Pool is not to be missed. The Norwegian House Museum provides a great sense of local life. I ate well at Sjávarpakkhúsið restaurant: positioned with great views of the ocean, they work with local fishermen, farmers, and breweries to produce local, high quality, sustainable meals. I had a fine stay at Hótel Breiðafjörður.
Look: it's hard to go wrong in Iceland. But if getting slightly off the beaten track is more your style, don't miss this route.
